As beguiling, beach-blessed and downright blissful as its near neighbour Bali, Lombok is now much more than just a surfers' paradise. Gunung Rinjani, Indonesia's second-highest volcano, dominates Lombok's topography, and is a magnet for trekkers. Winding up its jungle-clad slopes (which takes a few days) reveals an ever-changing succession of fecund tropical vistas. Once on the summit, the sight of jaw-dropping sunrises and volcanic calderas, and a sense of conquering the entire island, are rewards for the weary. Green trekking initiatives such as pathside trash removal make it possible to give something back to this genuinely awesome, active volcano, sacred to both Sasaks and Hindus. It's also possible to while away a few pleasant hours hiking in little-visited Taman Wisata Alam Kerandangan. Aside from the backpacker-friendly hubs of Kuta and Senggigi, Lombok's party scene isn't technically on the island at all, but in its tiny offshore satellites, the Gilis. And one Gili in particular, Gili Trawangan, is internationally renowned for beach parties, raucous hostel bars and blissful beachside cocktail joints. While there's much more to Gili T than layback drinks and excitable twentysomethings, it's clear what many come here seeking.The barely clad young things that throng its streets, hung-over but discussing what's going down later that night, is all the confirmation needed.